Hosiery



March 14, 1939. 1w, METTLER v 2,150,333

HOSIERY Filed April 16, 1937 3 Sheets-Sheet l ATTORNEY March 14 1939. 3 J. w. ME TTLER 2,150,333

HOSIERY Filed April 16, 1957 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 l V NTO ATTORNEY March 19391 l. w. METTLER 2,150,333

' HQSIERY Filed April 16, 1937 s Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTORNEY Patented Mar. 14, 1939 PATENT OFFICE HOBIERY John was Mettler, East Millstone, N. 1.,

signor to Interwoven Stocking Company, New Brunswick, N. 1., a corporation of New Jersey Application April 16, 1937, Serial No. {37,215

10 Claims. (Cl. 66-172) My invention consists in the novel features hereinafter described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings which show several em.- bodiments of my invention selected by mefor purposes of illustration, and said invention is fully disclosed in the following description and claims.

In the knitting of hosiery and particularly men's half hose and men's, women's, boys and childrens anklets, it has been customary to knit a top portion, hereinafter referred to as the top, of l x 1 rib knitting, which in the case of men's half hose is approximately five inches in length,-

on a rib knitting machine. This rib top is then transferred to another machine and the last row of stitches of the top placed over the needles thereof and the leg and foot are knit onto the top, most usually by plain knitting. The rib top while usually having the same number of stitches as the plain knit leg is anarrower fabric of greater elasticity than plain knitting and provides the necessary stretch and elasticity to en'- able the leg portion of the sock or stocking to be drawribv'er the heel while it will immediately 5 contract upon the leg and provide a form fitting function to hold the top snugly around the leg. The public has long been accustomed to expect, in men's socks particularly, a rib top of this character. a

There has recently been developed, a new top for hosiery of this kind which is formed of plain knit or flat fabric, knit on only one set of needles, in which a continuous elastic thread of rubber, or the well knowrl La8tex" is incorporated .in selected, preferably spaced, courses, under tension and locked into the fabric in any desired way at spacedwales of said rubber bearing courses in the process of knitting, the elastic thread'being floated on the inner face ,of the -fabric between the points at which it is locked in the fabric. The spaced wales in the several courses are preferably vertically aligned and the tension of the elastic'thread draws the top into vertical rib-like ridges, or corrugations, simulating rib fabric, while when the stocking is worn these".

ridges tend to smooth out more or'less, and the circular series of floats form substantially continuous circular beads on thejinner face ofthe fabric, which individually'slightly indent or impress the skin of the wearer and as theyextend transversely of the direction in which the stocking tends to slip, serve to support the stocking i on the leg without the use of a garter, and with such light tension that the wearer is unconscious of it, in actual use. This type of fabric per se,

I will hereafter refer to as rubber incorporated ridged fabric to distinguish it from rib knit fabric.

In the practical manufacture of stockings, socks, or anklets, having such elastic incorporated tops, the elastic thread carrying courses even if separated as widely as every fourth or fifth course, or more, will contain approximately thirty rounds of lastex or other elastic thread, which adds materially to the cost of the sock or stocking.

I have found by experiment that a much smaller number of courses of elastic thread will be ample to enable the top to provide the selfsupporting function. If, however, the spaced courses are made fewer in number and distributed at intervals along the length of the top, the

plain lmit body fabric of the top between such groups of spaced elastic thread bearing courses will balloon outward, producing an unsightly effect in the hand, and depriving the top of the snug elongated form fitting effect for which the top has heretofore been particularly relied 'on, and to which the purchasing public is accustomed. To concentrate the spaced elastic thread bearing courses, at any part longitudinally of the length of the top leaving the remainder of plain knit courses without the rubber thread, will produce an unsightly effect, particularly if they are concentrated at any point below, the extreme upper part of the top, likewise the snug elongated form fitting effect would be lost.

According to my present invention, I form a top for a sock, anklet or stocking, in which I employ a much smaller number of spaced rubber bearing courses, sufficient to fully insure the support of the leg of the stocking, but no more, and at the same time I preserve the form fitting effect of the top-throughout the entire length of the top which maybe and usually is several times the length of the elastic thread incorporated ridged fabric. This I accomplish by knitting portions of the top of plain knit,

throughout the entire length of the top, while the floats of elastic thread or Lastex in the elastic thread incorporated ridged fabric perform the self-supporting function. The ridges of the elastic thread incorporated fabric tend to merge into thev ribs of the rib fabric so as to present a harmonious appearance and may be practically in uniform alignment if the spaces between the points of interlocking the elastic thread in the ridged fabric are identical with the spaces between the ribs of the rib fabric, as for example,

, if the elastic thread is locked into the ridged fabric in every alternate Wale and the rib fabric is a 1 x 1 rib. This exact or practically exact alignment is not'at all necessary and I prefer to lock the elastic thread in the ridged fabric, at about every fourth wale, and to employ a 1 x 1 rib fabric therewith Although other combinations may be used, if desired, this has been found in practice the most advantageous.

In carrying out my invention, a great saving of expense is obtained by eliminating so many courses of elastic thread, without any loss of efficiency of the top either as to its self-supporting or form fitting function, and without impairing the sightliness of the sock or stocking, either as displayed or sold over the counter, or on the leg of the wearer. The sections of elastic incorporated ridged plain or fiat. fabric, and rib fabric, may be variously arranged in the top. For example, the upper part of the top may be formed of the ridged fabric and. the lower of rib fabric, or vice versa, or the two kinds of fabric may be divided up and formed as alternating bands with pleasing effect and substantially equal efficiency.

In carrying out my invention, the upper end of the top is provided with a welt or selvage which may be stretched to the same extent as the top and which may be formed in any known or desired manner, and such welt or selvage may or may not have elastic threads incorporated therein as hereinafter described.

The leg and foot of the stocking are preferably knit integrally with the last course of the top which may be either plain knit, or rib knit, and the leg of the stocking may be either plain knit or rib knit, and if rib knit, it may be of the same type as the rib lmit portion of the top, 1 x 1,

or of a different type as 6 x 3 rib, or any other kind of rib as. preferred. While I prefer to knit the top andleg as a continuous integral fabric, the top may be knitted separately and attached to the leg by stitching, looping, or in any other desired manner.

My invention can be carried out by hand, or by means of the well known Komet Knitting Machine, manufactured by The Bentley Engineering Company, of Leicester, England, or other knitting machine provided with upper and lower cylinders, having aligned needle grooves, and needles provided with a hook and latch at each end and cam engaging butts to cooperate with the cam mechanism of either cylinder, the needles being capable of being selected and transferred from one cylinder to the other and vice versa, whereby when all the needles are assembled in the lower cylinder the machine may be operated to produce plain knitting, and by transferring selected needles to the upper cylinder any desired type of rib knitting may be produced. The

Komet machine, for example, is provided with an auxiliary thread feeding finger at a distance from the feeding throat, and auxliary knitting cams capable of cooperating with said auxiliary feeding finger which can be employed for incorporating the elastic thread at spaced courses of plain knitting, and looking it at spaced wales in such courses, in several ways, as fully set forth in an application for Letters Patent of the United States, filed by John H. Miller and Frank Evans, on the 5th day of March, 1937, and givenSerial Number 129,206.

The invention can also be carried out in many of its forms on the well known Scott and Williams Model H-H knitting machine, which can be op.-

erated to knit rib fabric followed by plain knit fabric, but cannot return to rib knitting in the same stocking after being shifted into condition to knit plain fabric. The invention can also be carried out in a similar manner on the Banner rib to toe knitting machine, made by the Hemp- ,hill Qompany of Pawtucket, Rhode "Island, as

well as on other cylinder and dial machines for making complete socks or anklets or tops therefor.

As these machines are on the market and are well known and form no part of my invention, I will notillustrate or describe them further, or in detail.

Referring to the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1, represents a sock embodying my invention.

Figure 2 is an enlarged view of the top of the sock shown in Figure 1, partly broken away.

Figure 3 is an enlarged view, of the top of a sock'showinga modification of my invention.

Figure 4 is a view similar to Figure 3 showing another modification.

Figure 5 is a view of the top portion of a sock showing another modification.

Figure 5 is a diagrammatic sectional view of the top shown in Figure 5.

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 5 showing a modified form of welt.

Figure 6 is an enlarged view of the top of a sock showing another modification.

Figure 6 is a diagrammatic sectional view of Figure 6.

Figure 7 is an enlarged view of the top of a stocking partly broken away showing another modification of my invention.

Figure 8 shows one of the tops, to wit, that shown in Figure 5, folded upon itself.

In Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings, I have illustrated a man's sock embodying my invention. In these figures, I represents the top of the sock, the upper portion 2 of which comprises a plurality of plain knit courses having an elastic thread 3 of rubber, Lastex or other suitable material, incorporated in spaced courses oyf plain knitting, the said elastic thread being locked into the fabric at certain predetermined and vertically aligned wales in the courses containing the elastic thread as indicated at 4, m Figure 2, and floated as indicated at 5, in Figure 2, in each course between the points at which this interlocking with the fabric occurs, thus forming a tubular fabric which I have heretofore termed rubber incorporated ridged fabric, it being understood that the elastic thread is fed under tension and that the tension of the rubber thread will draw together the fabric between the wales in which the elastic thread is locked into the fabric, not only in the courses in which the rubber thread is present, but also in the intervening courses, thus reducing its diameter substantially to that of the ribbed fabric, and producing throughout the fabric the series of vertical ridges which are indicated at 6, in Figure 2. This fabric can be readily produced as tubular fabric by means of the Komet machine previously referred to, by knitting with all the needles in the lower cylinder as set forth in the application of John H. Miller and Frank Evans, hereinbe-.

courses of plain knitting which are folded and 1 x 1 rib, to which the leg m, in this instance of stitched as at in a well known manner. In this instance, the remaining portion of the top I is formed of rib knitting as indicated at 0 in Figures 1 and 2, and which can be readily knit on the Komet machine, for example, by transferring every other needle of the circular series to the upper cylinder of the machine and feeding the body thread thereto in the normal operation of the machine for producing rib knitting.

The-resulting top I therefore, comprises in this instance, a. section of rubber incorporated ridged fabric 2 adjacent to the upper end of the top to which a lower section 9 of rib fabric, preferably 1 x 1 rib is integrally knitted, the entire top will therefore be form fitting while the upper section 2 contains'a sufficient number of substantially continuous rows of floats lof the rubber or lastex thread to engage the leg of the wearer and hold the leg of the stocking from slipping downward and obviate the use of a garter. It will also be noted that a great saving in the courses of rubher or lastex thread is effected since it only extends through the upper combined form fittingv and self-supporting section 2. It will be understood that the spacing of the courses containing the elastic thread as well as the spacing of the wales in which the elastic thread is locked in the fabric in each course may be varied. If the wales in which the elastic thread is interlocked are separated more widely than the width of one wale and the section 0 is knit with 1 x 1 rib, the rubber iiacorporated ridged, fabric might have a tendency to appear a little widerin the undistended condition of thetop than the adjoining rib fabric 0. If desired, the tension of the elastic thread may be slightly increased so as to make the diameter of the ridged fabric 2 the same as the diameter of the rib fabric 0, or the tension on the body thread in the rib fabric 0 could be slightly eased for the'same purpose.

In Figures 1 and 2, I have shown the leg of the stocking indicated at II as composed of 6 x 3 rib and knit integrally with the last course of the I x 1 rib of the top I. This can be readily accomplished on the .Komet machine by distributing the needles between the upper and lower cylinwell known manner,

'and united thereto ders in alternate groups of 6 x 3, respectively. It is to be understood, however. that the leg of the stocking may be formed of other types of rib knitting, or it maybe formed of plain knitting. This can be accomplished by a proper distribution of the needles of theKomet machine, for example, between the upper and lower cylinders in the case of the other types of rib knitting or by bringing all of the needles into the lower cylinder and producing plain knitting where a plain knit leg is desired and the entire stockin is knit on onemachine asarr-integral fabric. 'I also wish it understood that the top may be knit separately from the leg and foot of the stocking by'stitchin'g or loopin or it may be transferred to the machine which knits the leg and foot of the stocking in the usual and and knit integrally therewith. When transferring is necessary it would ordinarily be preferable that the lower courses of the top be formed of 1 x1 rib fabric, since such rib fabric is more readily transferred.

In Figure 3, I have shown a stocking top Ill provided with alternating sections I02 and I09,

nating sections of rubber incorporated ridged fabric 202, and rib fabric 209, terminating at its lower end in a section of ridged fabric 202 to the lower edge of which the stocking leg 210 here shown as of plain knitting, is knit or secured in any desired manner. The top 20l is also shown as provided with the same type of welt 201 of plain knitting, folded and sewed at 208 as previously described, but in this instance, I have shown the welt provided with elastic threads 201* incorporated in certain courses thereof in the same manner in which the elastic threads 203 are in corporated in the ridged sections 202 of the top, or in any other desired manner, and this construction may be employed with this type of welt, if desired.

In Figures 5 and 5, I have illustrated another modified form of top 30!, which can be made on the Komet machine and can also be made on the Scott and Williams Model H-H machine, and the Banner machine, previously referred to. In this instance, the welt 301 is preferably formed as a tubular welt as clearly illustrated in Figure 5 in a well known way and is followed by a plurality of courses' of rib knitting, preferably 1x1, rib to form a rib section 309 after which a rubber incorporated ridged section 302 is formed containin'gthe elastic threads 303 in the manner previously described and followed by the leg section 2". The leg section ill, if the stocking is knit on the Komet or Banner machine, may be either leg 3l0 would of necessity, be formed of plainknitting, as this machine cannot be restored to condition to knit rib knitting in the same top or sock after it has been adjusted to produce plain knitting. 'The top shown in Figures 5 and 5, however, can obviously be formed on either the Komet, or Scott and Williams, or Banner machine, separately from the leg of the stocking and attached thereto in any of the ways previously described. The top shown in Figures 5 and fi differs from those previously described in that the upper section, thereof is of rib knitting, while the lower section is of the plain knit rubber incorporated ridged fabric 302. A satisfactory top, howeverfcan be made in this manner as the entire top will be form fitting and the section 302 will contain a suflicient number of courses including the elastic threads 303 to support the stockthreads ll'l are incorporated within the welt to i cause the welt to more snugly fit the leg. Obviously, where elastic threads are incorporated in the welt portion of the top, they will have some self-supporting effect and. the number of elastic incorporated courses in the plain knit' section or sections of the top maybe correspondingly reduced, if desired.

Inrlguresflanddalhaveahownanother slightly modified form of top 405 embodying my invention in which sections 402 at the upper and I elastic thread 401 extending through the'loops of the first course of plain knitting and forming part of the upper section 402. In this case, the rubber thread 401 will perform the double function of contributing to the form fitting aswell as the self-supporting character of the top. The leg 4 l may be of plain or fiat knit as shown, or it may be of rib knitting, and in either case, the top and leg may be formed separately and united in any of the ways previously described, if this is found desirable. I 4

Figure 7 illustrates another slight modification somewhat similar to that shown in Figures and 6, and which can be knit on either the Komet or Scott and Williams machines, as previously described. In this instance, the stocking top indicated at 50l and broken away, comprises a tubular welt 501, followed by a comparatively short section of rib knitting indicated at 509, the remainder of the top being formed of plain knit rubber incorporated ridged fabric 502, previously described, containing the elastic threads 503, and being of any desired length, and followed by the leg portion 5| 0, which is preferably of plain knit fabric. If, however, this stocking is knit on the Komet machine, the leg maybe of rib fabric,

if desired, or the top may be formed separatelyand attached to any type of leg.

It is to be understood that in the production of the plain knit rubber incorporated ridged fabric hereinbefore described, the elastic thread may be locked in the fabric in any.desired manner. For example, it can be fed to the hooks of the needles forming the selected wales and knit with the body thread at such wales, or it can be fed below the latches of selected needles, in which case, it will be cast over the tops of said needles and locked in the fabric, or the elastic thread may be fed to the hooks of selected needles which are operated to draw loops of the elastic thread only and cast off the body thread. I further 'wish it to be understood that I do not claim the herein described plain knit rubber incorporated ridged fabric per se.

' While I have described the plain knit or fiat fabric as having the elastic thread incorporated in certain courses and locked in the fabric at vertically aligned points so that it will contract the fabric into vertical rib-like ridges, it is to be understood that the elastic thread may. if desired, be locked in the fabric at any desired separated points or wales, in alignment, so that the fabric may be contracted into inclined or spiral ridges, or into small checks, diamonds, or other figures or patterns, in accordance with the ideas of the manufacturer.

It will also be understood that the rib knit sections may also be varied, by knitting small sections of 1 x 1 rib interspersed with small sections of plain or fiat knitting by known means to impart decorative effects, such as the well known basket weave, or similar patterns.

It will also be understood that with a top em bodying my invention, it can be worn as a. single thickness or folded over as preferred. In those cases where the upper portion of the top is of rib fabric and the lower part is of the elastic incorporated fabric, as shown in Figure 5, for example, it is peculiarly well adapted to be used in this manner, as the 1 x 1 exposed inner face of the rib knit section appears substantially the same as the outer face, and the elastic thread incorporated plain or flat knit portion is leftwith the float portions on the inner face, to engage the leg of the wearer, and support the leg of the stocking, sock or anklet. I have shown in Figure 8, the top illustrated in Figure 5, folded over in this manner.

What I claim and desire tosecure by Letters Patent is:

1. A form fitting and self-supporting top for a stocking, provided at its upper end with anti-rave] means, a section adjacent to the upper end of said top consisting of courses of plain knitting,

certain courses thereof having an elastic'thread incorporated therein under tension, locked into the fabric at certain wales of said courses, and floated on the inner face of the fabric between said wales, and drawing said fabric into rib-like ridges, a following portion of said top being formed of courses of rib knitting.

2. -A form fitting and self-supporting top for a stocking, provided at its upper end with antiravel means, a section adjacent to the upper end of said top consisting of courses of plain knitting, certain courses thereof having an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension, locked into the fabric at certain wales of said courses, and floated on the inner face of the fabric between said wales, and drawing said fabric into rib-like ridges, a following portion of said top being formed of courses of rib knitting, said anti-ravel means having associated therewith elastic thread, under tension, tending to draw it upon the leg of the wearer.

3. A form fitting and self-supporting stocking top, comprising a tubular portion consisting of a plurality of seamless courses of ribknitting and a tubularportion consisting of a plurality of courses of plain knitting having an elastic thread under tension incorporated in certain of said plain courses, locked into the fabric at certain corresponding wales of said courses and floated on the inner face of the said plain fabric between the wales at which it is so locked, the tension of said elastic thread serving to draw said plain fabric into vertical rib-like ridges, said anti-ravel means at the upper end of said top provided with elastic thread associated therewith under tension and to draw the upper end of the top upon the leg of the-wearer.

4. A form fitting and self-supporting top for I a stocking provided at the upper edge with an anti-rave] welt, a section immediately below said welt formed by a plurality of rib courses, and a section below said rib section formed by a plurality of plain knit courses, having an elastic thread incorporated in'certain courses thereof, under tension, locked into the fabric at certain wales in said courses, floated on the inner face of the fabric between said wales, and drawing the plain knit fabric into rib-like ridges.

5. A form fitting and self-supporting top for a stocking provided at the upper edge with an anti-revel welt, a section immediately below said welt formed by a plurality of rib courses, and a section below said rib section-formed by a pluralityof plain knit courses, having an elastic thread incorporated in certain courses thereof, under tension, locked into the fabric at certain wales in said courses, floated onthe inner face of the fabric between said wales, and drawing the plain knit fabric into rib-like ridges, said welt being provided with elastic thread, under tension, for drawing it upon the leg of the wearer.

6. A form fitting 'and self supporting top for a stocking provided at its upper end with antiravel means, portions of said top comprising a plurality of consecutive courses of plain knit fabric formed of inelastic body thread, certain courses thereof having an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension united to the fabric at separated points in said courses and floated on the inner face of the fabric between said points, the other portions of said top comprising consecutive courses of rib knitting formed of body thread only and containing the same number of stitches as those of the plain knit fabric.

7. An article of hosiery having a form fitting and self supporting top, provided at its upper end with anti-ravel means, portions of said top comprising a plurality of consecutive courses of plain knit fabric formed of inelastic body thread, certain courses thereof having an elastic thread incorporated therein under tension, united to the fabric at separated points in said courses and floated on the inner face of the fabric between said points, the other portions of said top comprising consecutive courses of rib knitting formed of body thread only and containing the same number of stitches as those of the plain knit fabric, said body thread being continuous throughout the plain knit and rib knit portions of the top, and having a leg portion knit into the last course of the top.

8. An article of hosiery having a form fitting and self supporting top, provided at its upper end with anti-ravel means, portions of said top comprising a plurality of consecutive courses of plain knit fabric formed of inelastic body thread, certain courses thereof having an elastic thread incorparted therein under tension, united to the fabric at separated points in said courses and floated. on the inner face of the fabric between said points, the other portions of said top comprising consecutive courses of rib knitting formed of body thread only and containing the same number of stitches as those of the plain knit fabric, said body thread being continuous throughout the plain knit and rib knit portions of the top, and having a leg portion knit into the last course of said top and formed of the same body thread.

9. A form fitting and self supporting top for a stocking. provided at its upper end with antiravel means and composed of alternating bands, certain of said bands comprising a plurality of consecutive courses of plain knit fabric formed of inelastic body thread, certain courses thereof having elastic thread incorporated therein under tension, united to the fabric at spaced points in said courses and floated on the inner face of the fabric between said points, the outer of said alternating bands comprising consecutive courses of rib knit fabric formed of the inelastic body thread only and having the same number of stitches as those of the plain knit bands, the tension of the elastic thread drawing the plain knit fabric bands to substantially the same diameter as the rib knit bands and forming vertical ridges in the plain knit bands approximately corresponding with the ribs of the rib knit bands.

10. A form fitting and self supporting stocking top comprising a tubular portion consisting of a plurality of courses of rib knitting and an integral tubular portion consisting of a plurality of courses of plain knitting of substantially the same number as the rib knit courses, each of said plain knit courses having the same number of stitches as the rib knit courses and having an elastic thread under tension incorporated in certain of said plain knit courses, united to the fabric at spaced points in said courses and floated on the inner face of said plain knit fabric between said points, the floated portions of the elastic thread forming horizontal beads on the inner face of the fabric to indent the leg of the wearer and support the said top and the leg of the stocking, whereby the rib knit portion of said top and the anti-rave! means may be turned dowward on the exterior of the plain knit portion.

JOHN WYCKQFF ME'I'I'LER. 

